The outfits of Yi ethnic group are displayed at the China Chuxiong Fashion Week Gala held in Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province, on 5 January (COURTESY)

What could be a better way to celebrate the New Year for an ethnic minority region in a mountainous area than a splendid display of the colour elements of its culture to global audience? Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture in southwest China’s Yunnan Province did exactly that from 30 December 2023 to 5 January. 

Besides the glitz and glamour associated with fashion events, the Chuxiong Fashion Week sought to highlight the unique embroidery and handicrafts of various ethnic groups, with a special focus on the Yi community.  

The Chuxiong Fashion Week became a melting pot of cultures, featuring the creative contributions of various ethnic groups. While each group brought its unique elements to the event, it was the Yi embroidery that captivated the audience. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the patterns of Yi embroidery carry profound cultural significance, often narrating stories of tradition, rituals and local folklore.  

The fashion week also serves as a dynamic platform for collaboration and cultural exchange. Notable partnerships between Yi artisans and designers from different regions have resulted in a fusion of traditional and contemporary aesthetics. These collaborations not only celebrate the uniqueness of Yi embroidery but also showcase its adaptability to modern fashion trends. By delving into these collaborative efforts and the narratives behind the showcased garments, guests gained a richer understanding of how Yi embroidery is evolving while staying rooted in its cultural heritage. 

A beneficiary of “Made by Mom” project in Chuxiong shows her creations (DONATIEN NIYONZIMA) 

Transformative impact 

Central to Chuxiong’s success in promoting rural revitalisation is the meticulous cultivation of the Yi embroidery industry. Zhong Xuefeng, deputy director of the Information Office of the government of Chuxiong Autonomous Prefecture, underscored the pivotal role of Yi embroidery in creating opportunities for rural women. He told ChinAfrica that the non-profit project “Made by Moms” which enables low-income women to make money through producing handicrafts, embroidered ladies training programmes, and initiatives supporting disabled individuals through Yi embroidery have played pivotal roles in poverty alleviation. 

“Chuxiong digs deep into Yi embroidery industry to generate income. Yi embroidery in rural areas has the special advantages of ‘using local materials, using local talents and making money locally, which plays an important role in broadening the channels for consolidating the achievements of poverty alleviation,” he added. 

Individual success stories within the Yi embroidery industry are key to comprehend the transformative impact. These stories transcend economic indicators, highlighting the empowerment of women in rural areas. For example, the “Made by Moms” project not only promotes locally sourced materials and talents but has also become an inspiration of change for thousands of women who now find stable employment in Yi embroidery production.  

According to Zhong, the output value of Yi embroidery industry is expected to reach 1 billion yuan ($140.8 million) in 2023. The considerable output is a result of an industrial model explored and built by Chuxiong Prefecture. It is a “platform company + industrial alliance + key enterprise + association + women embroiderer” model. Zhong said that this model ensures good use of local products, and further promotes “Made by Mom” manufacturing, women embroiderer training plan, action plan for caring and helping the disabled through Yi embroidery, and the plan to encourage overseas Chinese companies and businesspeople to help promote Yi embroidery product around the globe. 

Partnerships between Yi artisans and designers combine traditional and contemporary aesthetics (COURTESY) 

Intangible heritage preservation 

Wu Yunbing, director of culture and tourism bureau of Chuxiong Autonomous Prefecture, told ChinAfrica that the government has commitment to preserve the intangible heritage of Yi embroidery. This commitment is reflected in a multifaceted approach involving meticulous investigation and recording of intangible cultural heritage. He disclosed that Chuxiong boasts impressive numbers in national and provincial representative projects, showcasing the dedication to institutional construction. 

“There are 14 national representative projects, 82 provincial and 282 prefecture-level projects,” he said. 

Specific regulations for the protection of Yi medicine, Yi costumes, and the Ten-Month Solar Calendar Culture underscore the government’s commitment to heritage preservation. The establishment of workshops, festival activities, and a comprehensive database for cultural connotations ensures a holistic approach to safeguarding Yi embroidery. The flexible utilisation of intangible cultural heritage, highlighted by the traditional craft revitalisation project centred around Yi costumes, demonstrates the government’s forward-looking strategies. 

“The regulations mentioned above provide policy guarantee for the protection of intangible cultural heritage,” Wu told ChinAfrica.  

This goes hand in hand with the government’s dedication to improving publicity through various channels, including animation videos and cultural heritage exhibitions, which ensures that the world recognises and appreciates the significance of Yi embroidery. These initiatives give a clear and comprehensive understanding of how the government is actively working to preserve and promote Yi embroidery as a vital component of China’s cultural heritage. 

Yi embroidery from Chuxiong has transcended local boundaries, gaining attention at international fashion events in Milan, New York, and beyond. The government’s ambitious plans to take Yi embroidery to major fashion weeks worldwide underscore its growing significance and influence in the global fashion industry.  

The global recognition garnered by Yi embroidery at major fashion events is not just a triumph for Chuxiong; it’s a celebration of the diversity and richness of Chinese culture. The creations that once decorated the clothing of rural communities is now making their mark on international runways. 

As Chuxiong sets its sights on the future, with the goal of securing job positions for 100,000 female embroidery workers and achieving 1 billion yuan ($140.8 million) in added value by 2025, according to Zhang Wenwang, commissioner of Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, it is evident that the art of Yi embroidery is not only a cultural heritage but also a stimulus for economic growth.  

But the success of Yi embroidery in Chuxiong cannot be measured solely in economic terms but in the lives transformed, the cultural heritage preserved, and the sense of pride instilled in the local population. Admiring the designs and vibrant colours of Yi embroidery shows the untold stories of the hands that crafted them.  

Besides economic gains, Chuxiong’s success in nurturing the Yi embroidery industry has also elevated the social status of rural women, making them not just contributors to an industry but torchbearers of a cultural heritage that links the past with the present, creating a bridge to the future. Yi embroidery is not merely a craft but a catalyst for positive societal change in rural communities.  

The Ten-Month Solar Calendar Park in Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province (DONATIEN NIYONZIMA)