Soundtrack for change

Now this might be what you expect me to say, but I'm telling you, it was a musician in Senegal who best exemplified the new rules. Youssou N'Dour - maybe the greatest singer on earth - owns a newspaper and is in the middle of a complicated deal to buy a TV station. You sense his strategy and his steel. He is creating the soundtrack for change, and he knows just how to use his voice. (I tried to imagine what it would be like if I owned The New York Times as well as, say, NBC. Someday, someday...)

In Maputo, Mozambique, I met with Activa, a women's group that, among other things, helps entrepreneurs get seed capital. Private and public sectors mixed easily here, under the leadership of Luisa Diogo, the country's former prime minister, who is now the matriarch in this mesmerizing stretch of eastern Africa. Famous for her Star Wars hairdo and political nous, she has the lioness energy of an Ellen Johnson Sirleaf, a Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala or a Graça Machel.

When I met with Diogo and her group, the less famous but equally voluble women in the room complained about excessive interest rates on their microfinance loans and the lack of what they called "regional economic integration." For them, infrastructure remains the big (if unsexy) issue. "Roads, we need roads," one entrepreneur said by way of a solution to most of the obstacles in her path. Today, she added, "we women, we are the roads." I had never thought of it that way but because women do most of the farming, they're the ones who carry produce to market, collect the water and bring the sick to the clinics.

The true star of the trip was a human hurricane: Mo Ibrahim, a Sudanese entrepreneur who made a fortune in mobile phones.

I fantasized about being the boy wonder to his Batman, but as we toured the continent together I quickly realized I was Alfred, Batman's butler. Everywhere we went, I was elbowed out of the way by young and old who wanted to get close to the rock star reformer and his beautiful, frighteningly smart daughter, Hadeel, who runs Mo's foundation and is a chip off the old block (in an Alexander McQueen dress). Mo's speeches are standing-room-only because even when he is sitting down, he's a standing-up kind of person. In a packed hall in the University of Ghana, he was a prizefighter, removing his tie and jacket like a cape, punching young minds into the future.

His brainchild, the Ibrahim Prize, is a very generous endowment for African leaders who serve their people well and then - and this is crucial - leave office when they are supposed to. Mo has diagnosed a condition he calls "third-termitis," where presidents, fearing an impoverished superannuation, feather their nests on the way out the door. So Mo has prescribed a soft landing for great leaders. Not getting the prize is as big a story as getting it. (He doesn't stop at individuals. The Ibrahim Index ranks countries by quality of governance.)

Mo smokes a pipe and refers to everyone as "guys" - as in, "Listen, guys, if these problems are of our own making, the solutions will have to be, too." Or, in my direction, "Guys, if you haven't noticed ... you are not African." Oh, yeah. And: "Guys, you Americans are lazy investors. There's so much growth here but you want to float in the shallow water of the Dow Jones or Nasdaq."

Ibrahim is as searing about corruption north of the Equator as he is about corruption south of it, and the corruption that crosses over ... illicit capital flight, unfair mining contracts, the aid bureaucracy.