Beijing's tea culture

Beijing is over 3,000 years old. It was the capital city for four dynasties, and continues to develop in the present day. Like the city, Beijing's teahouses also showcase a splendid combination of tradition and modernity.

Today, more than 700 large and small teahouses are scattered around the city. Due to competition from cafes and bars, they need to find their own niche market.

Many foreign tourists are intrigued by Beijing's teahouses. Francis Tchiegue often brings his African friends to Lao She Teahouse to drink tea and watch performances of his crosstalk. They love its unique environment.

Lao She Teahouse features an antique-style decor, with carved beams and painted rafters, and wooden windows with flower patterns. Calligraphy and traditional Chinese paintings hang on the wall, while ornate lanterns dangle from the roof. Aged tea pots and cups are placed on traditional square tables done in a late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) style. In the teahouse, there is a stage, which features traditional performances of Peking opera and crosstalk. Waiters wearing gowns and waitresses wearing cheongsams (also known as qipao, a body-hugging Chinese dress) are busy serving tea and dim sum for guests.

Guests from other Chinese cities and from abroad come here to experience the charm of traditional Beijing teahouse culture. "Whenever I have friends coming to China from foreign countries, I take them to teahouses rather than Starbucks. [Teahouses] are places of Chinese characteristics. My friends are always amazed," says Tchiegue.

Most Beijing's teahouses open in the city's commercial district or near office buildings. For today's Beijingers, the teahouse serves as a place not only for relaxation, but also for business meetings.

Four years ago, after completing her studies in chayi, the art of the Chinese tea ceremony, Long Yingshan opened her own teahouse in Beijing. There, guests can enjoy a variety of teas and tea ceremony rituals. Long comes from Yunnan Province in the southwest of China where drinking tea is just part of life. She finds that unlike tea culture there, only a few people come to her place for tea. More guests come to her teahouse to talk business, or to relax and enjoy a moment of peace.

"It's understandable. The fast-paced life here and the high price of drinking tea are the reasons why Beijingers cannot linger in teahouses all day long," explains Long. "[But], due to [diet] concerns, people have gradually moved their business meetings from the dinner table to the teahouse."

To meet this demand, most teahouses provide basic services like Internet access and photo-copying services. Single rooms are also available to meet guests' special needs.

Zhang Zan, the owner of Luyuxuan Teahouse, has opened three branches in the last 10 years. In his view, the secret to running a successful teahouse lies in its distinctive culture – specifically Buddhist culture.

Entering his teahouse, guests are greeted by over 100 statues of Buddha in varying sizes, and traditional furniture from the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties. The aromas of tea and incense, and soothing Buddhist music sink guests into a spiritual atmosphere.

"I'm not a Buddhist, but their respect for religion really touches me. The quiet environment makes you feel a moment away from the hustle and bustle of city life," comments Tchiegue.

Its unique decor is not the only feature of Zhang's teahouse. Buddhist masters have been invited to give lectures on Buddhist scriptures on a regular basis. Zhang hopes these talks will help people find clarity in their busy lives.

In addition, Buddhist scriptures are printed and freely distributed here; teahouse members have organized donations for disaster zones; and events are hosted to free captive animals (one last October led to the freeing of 100,000 birds). The teahouse even organized a trip to India for members to look for the Sakyamuni Buddha's footprint. "All these [efforts] are not done just for financial considerations. I believe in Buddhism. I want to plant the seeds of Buddhism in people's minds, and gradually they will learn something," Zhang explained.

Modern management is also featured in Beijing's teahouses. The creation of membership plans helps teahouses maintain a stable customer base. Members get discounts and the latest events information. According to Zhang, his teahouse has now nearly 10,000 members.

Wholesale pricing has also been adopted by teahouses. At Zhang's teahouse, packages ranging from 60 to 300 yuan ($9.09-45.45) per person include tea, snacks and a vegetarian meal. This approach has lowered barriers to entry for Beijing's teahouses, and attracts different kinds of tea drinkers. City teahouses are increasingly becoming prime destinations for those searching for a slow-paced lifestyle.