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VOL.3 October 2011
Qianshi Hutong
Once a Wall Street, Now a Narrow Haven
by Liu Jian

Qianshi Hutong: Beijing's Narrowest Lane (XING GUANGLI)

Qianshi Hutong is located near the Dashilan'er commercial street, just on the west side of Zhubaoshi Street. With its narrowest point preserved at 40 cm, it is the most constricted alley in Beijing's city limits. It was, once upon a time, China's Wall Street.

"Qianshi" literally means "money market." The hutong's history can be traced back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), when it was Beijing's official area for currency trading. Home to 26 government-authorized mints that produced coins for all the city's banks, large business firms, shop owners, and owners of grain depots would gather at Qianshi Hutong in the early mornings to change coins into taels, or vice versa. Over time, it became the capital's financial center for monetary exchange.

The 55-meter-long hutong is a narrow passageway with the average width of 70 cm. This space is limiting. When two people walking toward each other meet, one must turn sideways and let the other pass by first. It's said that smart city planners built the alley this way to prevent robberies from happening. Thieves fleeing with stolen money would be forced to slow down, and escape routes were easily blocked.

During the 1912-49 period, due to reforms in the monetary system, the previous demand for coins produced from precious metals shrank. Many of the mints were renovated into Chinese private banks constructed of huge polished stones and solid brick. Decades passed and the lane gradually lost its original function.

According to hutong residents, during that period, finance houses such as Da Tong Banking House or Wan Feng Banking House took advantage of lax legal supervision and expanded their buildings aggressively. This resulted in extreme narrowing of the lane's width.

Toward the end of Qianshi is a big courtyard, which in the past was a large government-run hall for money trading. Today, inside the structure are many smaller houses, where several families have squeezed in. Though the hutong is now only a residential area, windows outfitted with iron bars keep Qianshi's historical memory alive.

Upon close examination, the hutong's past importance as a financial center is apparent. Words related to money can be found on the doors and walls of buildings on both sides of the lane. On most wooden doors, engravings express wishes for prosperous business, good wealth and a good life. Some characters carved onto the stones are now unreadable, but their decorative patterns are still visible, demonstrating the neighborhood's bygone prosperity.

Currently, around 10 households occupy the lane, and almost every one has a fire extinguisher. Due to the Qianshi's narrow size, it is difficult to escape in the event of a fire. Elderly hutong residents in the area are prone to warning others about fire risks and prevention.

Hutong Tips

How to get there

> By subway: Take Subway Line 2 to Qianmen Station, Qianshi Hutong is a short walk from the stop.

> By bus: Take bus 17, 57, 59, 66, 715, 743, 744, 803 or 826 and get off at Zhushikou Station.

What to eat

>Among the dining establishments in the area, roast duck restaurant Quanjude might be the most famous. Opened in 1864, the Qianmen branch of the restaurant is the chain's original location. The price of a roast duck is around 200 yuan ($31.3). Besides roast duck, Quanjude is also known for its all-duck banquet and over 400 other dishes with Quanjude's characteristic flavor.

Address: No. 30 Qianmen Street

Website: www.qmquanjude.com.cn

 

 

 

 

 

 

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