Beijing visitors or residents looking to spend down time in a tranquil setting can opt for the Niujie Mosque and its surrounds – a charming and often overlooked part of the capital.
Niujie is the name of the street where the mosque is located, a name literally meaning Ox Street. The millennium mosque dates back to 996 and is the oldest and at 6,000 square meters, the largest of all the mosques in Beijing. The spacious prayer hall can easily accommodate1, 000 people.
The mosque was reconstructed and expanded in 1442, and again under the reign of Emperor Kangxi (1661-1722). Since the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, it has undergone major renovations in 1955, 1979 and 1996, before it became the heart of a brand new neighborhood and home to 13,000 Muslims.
The last renovations involved moving 7,500 families, 60 percent of who were Muslims, and the Beijing government's project has converted an area of 1 inhabitant per 5.1 meters into a modern district, with multi-storey buildings, water, electricity and gas supplies, stores, schools, and all the necessary services.
Different to the Buddhist temples and the ancient troyal palaces, the mosque follows the Qibla – meaning that it is orientated towards the holy land of Islam, Mekka, in the west.
In January 1988, the mosque was recognized as a monument under the highest state protection, and in Beijing, it belongs to the second category (of seven) of cultural heritage under municipal protection.
Located in Beijing's Xuanwu District, recently absorbed by Xicheng District, the mosque features Chinese architecture outside while the inside is decorated according to Islamic and Arabic styles. Design excludes animal and human figures, which are banned in Islam. The minaret is a square pavilion similar to the bell tower and the drum tower in Chinese temples, designed by Arab experts in 1068 and an internal staircase allows the muezzin (crier) to go up for the call to prayer. All inscriptions in the mosque are in Arabic. The position of the buildings divided by yards and covered galleries follows the Chinese style. There are north and the south reading rooms, the separate ablution rooms for men and women, prayer halls for both genders, as well as offices, storage rooms, and the Imam's residence. Two tombs of high ranking Islamic figures rest side to side amid steles and a huge bronze caldron.
Contrary to the mosques of several other countries, those in China are not forbidden to non-Muslims (except for the main prayer hall, that can be seen from outside). It is permitted to walk around freely, observing the due respect for the surroundings. .
To get to the mosque take exit D2 of Changchunjie subway station, and walk south past several restaurants lining the street. Reaching Shuru Hutong, you will see a huge compound on your left – the Xuannan Culture Museum, which is worth a visit. Entrance is at the east.
After this visit, continue south. Immediately past the museum you can rest up in a large park, then, cross the park diagonally towards the southwest, and head straight ahead to the mosque.
Several stalls along the street offer take-out and it's worth trying out the flavors and tastes distinct to this area. On the west side of the street is Xuanwu Hospital.
The mosque is located on the east side of the big street. Make sure to cross the street in front of the mosque, as it is a busy thoroughfare. Don't miss the 20 meters remaining of the original ancient wall now protected by an iron fence, in front of the mosque.
After visiting, cross the street again and head north. A large white building is the Islamic supermarket, where you will discover typical fresh or dried meats and fruits. Inside, close to the entrance, a wide variety of honey is on display from bargain prices to pricey jars. Also don't miss the bakery where the most bizarre looking pastries are the delicious.
How to get there :
By subway:
Changchunjie Station, Line 2, exit C or D2, then walk about 1.5 km. Or exit A, bus 10, 48, 88, 213 or 717, four stops.
Or Caishikou Station, Line 4, and bus 48.
If you come from other directions, bus 5, 6, 109, 381 or 613 will all bring you to Niujie Lukou Xi stop; and lines 57, 201, 687, to Niujie Lukou Dong.
Cost and schedule:
Mosque : 10 yuan for adults, free for children. From 8:00 to 16:00.
> Xuannan Culture Museum: Free. From 9:00 to 16:30. Last admission at 16:00. Closed on Mondays.
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