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August 2014
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Issue 1

 

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All Shades of Blue
The exotic splendor of Mozambique
Story and photographs by Jo Kromberg

The beautiful, calm seas around Indigo Bay

Mozambique. The very name conjures up images of exotic cocktails, flaming sunsets over glassy calm seas and diving into waters the colours of your most tranquil mood.

 
Peace ascended on the land in 1992 after two decades of a brutal civil war and, like in South Africa, the country's first democratic elections were held in 1994. Since then, Mozambique is increasingly considered one of the up-and-coming "in" hotspots for tourists all around the world.
 
It offers some of the best diving in the world. Its stunning pristine beaches stretch over a 2,500 km coastline. The islands off Pemba in the north are situated in the Quirimbas Archipelago and are as magnificent as they are pristine. You will be hard pressed to find such natural beauty anywhere else in the world if you are in search of tropical islands with calm, warm seas. If, however, a more vibrant vacation is your scene, Maputo, the capital city has a mezmerizing pulse and offers side-walk cafes, markets, jazz bars, great shopping and wonderful culture in the form of the trademark marrabenta music and the colorful people with their long and interesting traditions.
 
For a unique safari experience, the Niassa Reserve is a must. It is the largest conservation area in Mozambique and nearly twice the size of the world-famous Kruger national Park in South Africa. The reserve is virtually unexplored and offers an experience of pure wilderness and the wildlife roam free and unhindered. It is a wildlife paradise boasting elephant, African wild dogs, lions, leopards, hyenas and a whole host of antelope.
 
But just because the country is a relative newcomer to international tourism, doesn't mean one has to slum it – everything but! Five star establishments are found across the country and the standards of accommodation, food and service compare to the best in the world. One such group is Rani Resorts. They have bush, beach and city options to choose from and their wonderful island resort just off Vilancoulos is called Indigo Bay.
 

    The Spa at Indigo Bay 

One of South Africa Airways feeder airlines, Airlink, flies to Vilanculos from OR Tambo in Johannesburg and you land just before 1:00 in the afternoon. Then you board a "caravan' – a 12-seater aircraft on route to Bazarruto Island and your heavenly destination for the next two days, Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa. Bazaruto, from the Portuguese Ilha do Bazaruto means "island of the mist" and is located approximately 80 km southeast of the mouth of the Save River. 
 
The warm, southward-flowing Mozambique Current means the coastline is becoming increasingly sandy. The clear water makes much of the sub-surface patterns around the island discernible and from the plane the sea and coral reefs resemble a surrealist painting of beige, indigo, azure and pastel blues and greens. Rainfall in this humid tropical climate amounts to around 850 mm annually, mostly falling from December to March.
 
During September the weather is partly cloudy and only 23 degrees centigrade but one can feel the humidity creeping up. The flight to the island lasts only 15 minutes. Indigo Bay has an unpretentious island feel but one is immediately aware of 5 star service, facilities and luxury. The rooms are gorgeous –very spacious with mini-bar, air conditioning, and amazing bath products, indoor and outdoor shower with a sunken bath - with a view. The resort can accommodate 114 guests but it doesn't feel like a big resort. Instead of the rooms being on top of each other, they are separate units, spread out and intimate. The sun goes down over the Indian Ocean in a blaze of oranges, then reds then pinks and you can watch this free show from your balcony or from your bath. The food here is quite spectacular and on this particular night comprises of a fish starter - minced mussel and line fish in a herb crust with salad and the main course is pork loin, served on the patio restaurant by candlelight and soft jazz playing in background. 

All food, local beer, wine and spirits as well as certain activities are included in the price. After dinner, guests can go for a walk on the beach and enjoy the sound the crickets, the soft lapping of the water and the Milky Way and a gazillion stars in the galaxy. There is not a breath of wind.  This visceral feeling is unparalleled as one feels strangely untouched by the world so far, far away and completely alone under this shiny, big black open sky with all its twinkles - and at peace.  After breakfast the next morning it's off to Paradise Island, about a 15-minute boat ride away. The boat anchors close to the island for snorkeling. The water is like blue, shiny silk and the visibility is all the way down - about 6 meters where little blue and yellow fish as well as jellyfish cavort. A beach barbeque awaits after all this activity. While the other guests frolic in the warm water, a guide can take you to see the ruins of the only hotel on the island. It could accommodate more than 300 people once upon a time and now stands empty and silent - a concrete corpse silently gazing out over the azure water. It is eerie. After a brisk and hot 20 min walk back, its time for a delicious lunch of fresh prawns and best potato salad. Back on terra firma later that afternoon it is almost immediately back to messing about in boats again as the resort offers a short sundowner cruise on a traditional dhow. The sun sinks lazily in a million orange blazes over the calm ocean and all is right with the world. Dinner that evening is served at Club Naval and candles and wiki torches are set up all around the beach at the water's edge. Enter a sumptuous buffet of chicken, fish and oxtail as well as crayfish pasta as well as carbonara. While at Indigo Bay, a massage at the Spa is highly recommended. The Spa is spectacularly located with a breath-taking view.
 
The only thing you won't have time to do at Indigo bay is nothing.

Go to www.raniresorts.com for more information, reservations and special offers.

Airlink, the largest independent Regional Feeder Airline from Johannesburg offers direct convenient scheduled flights from Johannesburg to Vilanculos on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
 
Flights depart Johannesburg OR Tambo International at 11h30 arriving at Vilanculos 13h10 and depart again from Vilanculos at 13h45 arriving in Johannesburg at 15h30.
 
The timing of the flights offer convenient connections through our alliance with SAA and the Star Alliance partners flights and other international carriers connecting the world to Mozambique and well as throughout Southern Africa.
 
Airlink has a turnover of more than two billion rand, employs 1000 staff and carries one million plus customers (400 000 are connecting passengers) annually to more than 30 destinations on more than 35 000 schedule flights and operates within southern Africa, extending the network to Madagascar, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Mozambique.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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