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Issue 8  
 
Purple Rain – 48 Hours in Pretoria
By Jo Kromberg

The Voortrekker Monument is a unique cultural and historic attraction to commemorate the Voortrekker pioneers who left the Cape Colony between 1835 and 1854 to travel north into Africa

"Oral in die strate is die fans van country plate." Everywhere in the streets, there were country records fans. So mused local musician Bernoldus Niemand aka James Philips in a zombie-like voice, describing his take on Pretoria during the 1980s.

Snor City. The Jacaranda City. Tshwane. Pretoria goes by many names, not all of them complimentary. But a lot has changed since the 1980s and today, it is a world-class, vibrant city, nestling among surrounding hills and free from fog or pollution as there are no industrial plants nearby. During October, the jacaranda trees canopy the city with a magical light purple cloud. Pretoria has arguably the best weather in the country and during summer, you have the place virtually to yourself as the masses inexplicably make their way to expensive, crowded and windy Cape Town.

So allow me to take you on a tour of my adopted city. The journey might surprise you.

Friday night lights

Pretoria has a vibrant nightlife. So come on weekends and people are out en masse, enjoying the mild summer. 

Head out to one of the many live music venues. The Arcade Empire, Café Barcelona, The Barnyard Theater, The Atterbury Theater, Steak & Ale, and Tings & Times - all offer a variety of live music genres, from jazz to rock to blues and yes, sometimes even Afrikaans pop music from the likes of Kurt Darren, on some week nights and over weekends.

Cafe Barcelona is a firm favorite of ours, featuring prominent South African musicians like Valiant Swart, Van Coke Kartel, Dan Patlansky and many other class acts.

Tings & Times also offers live music by prominent musicians and the atmosphere is vibey and fun with a bohemian/reggae theme and dishes like Selassie's Spear (haloumi and mushroom skewers) and Mary Jane's Lamb (delicious marinated lamb in a pita).

If the theater and cabaret are more your thing, check out what shows are on offer at the grande dame of South Africa theaters, the Pretoria State Theater. This centrally located and opulently designed theater offers everything from opera, ballet, cabaret and musicals to children's theater. Alternatively, there is the Asbos. It is not your average commercial theater. A cozy place that can seat only about 80 people, Asbos encourages all kinds of performances, from professional to amateurish ones.

Chow down

Even after a busy night on the town, I would not suggest sleeping in the next morning, no matter how tempting. Pretoria has some of the best food and craft markets in the country but for the best experience, get there early. And again, this is why Pretoria in December is so lovely - no traffic, no crowds, no hassles, even though the markets are very popular. The Irene Market is my favorite, situated on the banks of the Hennops River on the slopes of Smuts Hill in the leafy suburb of Irene. With its pastoral, rural landscape of dairy farms, rivers and green forests you might think you are in some lovely Constable painting somewhere in England.

Trading since 1989 and open every second Saturday, it is one of the oldest markets in Pretoria, with ample guarded parking, kids' entertainment, a licensed tea garden, and yummy food stalls. There are more than 250 stalls with wares ranging from art and crafts to clothing, antiques, flowers, and curious and beautiful jewelry. You can spend the entire morning here. Check them out at http://www.irenemarket.co.za/ if only to see the funky website!

Alternatively, food-obsessed folks should head to the Hazelwood Food Market in Greenlyn Village Center, Menlo Park Open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., this is a gourmand's paradise but beware of the prices.

During December they will also offer night markets and this is a must-do!

Go to http://www.hazelfoodmarket.co.za/for a list of stalls and mouth-watering offerings.

Culture vultures

After a morning of savoring snacks and treats, it's time for a spot of sightseeing.

http://showme.co.za/pretoria/tourism/the-union-buildings-pretorias-favourite-landmark/

People throng to the Union Buildings, an iconic landmark, to admire the historical statues and memorials, or picnic near the fountains, or simply exercise in the exquisite garden. A giant statue of Nelson Mandela towers over the buildings. A myriad of museums and galleries such as Melrose House, the Pioneer Museum, Sammy Marks Museum and the Ditsong National Museum of Natural History also give visitors a chance to expand their cultural horizons. Make a point of seeing Kruger House. It was the residence of Paul Kruger, one of the leaders of the Boer War of resistance against the British. In 1883, Kruger became the President of the South African Republic.

The next year, Kruger House was designed by Tom Claridge and built by Charles Clark. One of the first residences in Pretoria to boast electricity, the mansion is said to have been built using milk instead of water to improve the low-quality cement. Now a museum, the former presidential residence gives viewers an insight into the turbulent times in which Kruger lived.    

And how can a trip to Pretoria be complete without a visit to the Voortrekker Monument?

This granite monument is a tribute to Voortrekkers, the thousands of Afrikaner emigrants who made the great trek from the Dutch-founded Cape Colony to the inside of what is now South Africa, in the 19th century. Standing on a hill, it was designed by architect Gerald Moerdijk with the lofty ambition of creating a monument "that would stand thousands of years to describe the history and the meaning of the Great Trek to its descendants".Today it has thrown off its notorious and underserved image as a bastion of apartheid and is admired for its beautiful architecture.

Dining out

Pretoria has, in my opinion, some of the best restaurants in the country. So come evening, splash out a bit and make a reservation at one of the following recommended restaurants: Koi for a taste of Asia, Kream for a touch of class, and Cynthia's for classic dining. The upmarket chain restaurant Crawdaddy's is our favorite for great ambience, excellent service and unbeatable food. Make sure you book a table in advance since they are jam-packed all through the week.

Then of course there is Ritrovo.

The ambience is relaxed with soft music and lighting, It is suggested that we try the signature wine called Nick and Forte's Artscape; so we decide on the 2012 Sauvignon/Chenin Blanc blend. It is simply excellent, with a very fruity nose and lands crisp and dry on the palate. 

For starters we are treated to scallops in a white wine, apricot and basil sauce. The scallops are cooked to perfection and the delicate sauce enhances these little morsels magically. We are also served lamb kidneys flashed in the pan with Marsala wine and their own pan juices bound with double cream and a touch of Dijon mustard.

Mains come in the form of veal chops prepared the Milanese way, with a herb crust. The veal is tender and still slightly pink and the flavors join in harmony like the chorus of Carmina Burana. I choose the Pemba Bay cob, freshly flown in from Mozambique, perfectly crisp on the outside but cooked tenderly on the inside, as fish should be, with a beautiful lemon butter sauce, finished with toasted almonds.

Ritrovo is an absolute gem where the service is fit for royalty and the food is unsurpassed. But best of all, its charming owner Fortunato might just serenade you. He is a trained opera singer and every now and then, Ritrovo has musical evenings where Fortunato himself sings to guests in his beautiful tenor.

Lazy Sundays

Make your way to one of the outstanding delis in Pretoria for a lazy and luxurious Sunday brunch. Carlton Cafe Delicious is a daytime eatery and since opening in Menlo Park in 2002, it has enjoyed a loyal epicurean following. "From picnic baskets to cakes that dazzle, Deli breakfasts and lunches, nougat in flavors that take you on a magic carpet ride to one of (chef Rachel Botes')creative specialized dinners, she keeps pushing boundaries and serving delights that linger. The putu pap with fried biltong and mascarpone for breakfast and Southern fried chicken with a secret mix of spices for lunch are regulars that remain on the menu to prevent a riot," writes food critic Diane de Beer.

Then there is Deli on Duncan in Hatfield.EatOutcalls it: "Packed with personality. The ambience and setting are unique, allowing you to escape into another world. Stand-out dishes: lamb pie; biltong, pear and blue cheese quiche; open tart with ham, apple, Camembert and fig; baked cheesecake; shortbread; and carrot cupcakes."

So once the Delicious craving is satisfied, head to one of the many beautiful nearby reserves for a picnic with friends and family. Nkwe provides nature at its best, offering bird life and scenic walks though quiet and peaceful shaded valleys situated on the banks of the Pienaars River. It is an idealbraai(barbecue) and picnic spot, so while away the day here, imagining yourself far from the madding crowd.

Pretoria is a wonderful city waiting to be discovered. Amazing surprises await you!

Did you know?

*Pretoria's also home to the Nan Hua Buddhist Temple,the largest Buddhist temple and seminary in Africa.

*Not only is it one of the largest cities in the world, it's also said to host the most diplomatic missions after Washington D.C.

*The Rietvlei Nature Reserve is a 3,800-hectare grassland where many bird and animal species can be viewed.

*The National Zoological Gardens is the largest zoo in the country and its botanical gardens are spread over 76 hectares.

*Pretoria recently became the only city in the world with a big-five game reserve within city boundaries – the 90,000-hectare Dinokeng Big 5 Game Reserve. 

*Almost half of all Chinese tourists to South Africa visit Pretoria's Voortrekker Monument.

For more info, go to:

http://www.eatout.co.za/article/the-best-restaurants-in-pretoria/

http://showme.co.za/pretoria/tourism/pretoria-must-see-attractions/

http://showme.co.za/pretoria/about-pretoria/

http://www.pretvan.co.za/pretoria_city_tour.html

http://www.ritrovo.co.za/

 

 

 

 

 

 

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