Issue 19

The icy wind in Durban, South Africa, is quickly negated by the warm smile of our driver Anthony who drives us the 15 km or so to our home for the next two days, the Fairmont Zimbali Resort, situated inside the exclusive Zimbali Coastal Estate. Located five minutes from the bustling holiday town of Ballito, 20 minutes from Umhlanga and 30 minutes from Durban, this beachfront North Coast hotel provides easy access to the province's attractions. The gun metal grey sea comes into view, moving restlessly across the wide, deserted beach as we drive the easy, uncluttered-by-traffic 10 minutes or so to paradise.

Arrival at the resorts results in more oohs and aahs. The reception area comprises of wide volumes of space broken by columns and Zen art as well as the most artful light fittings and fixtures. We are early, so after quick check in we are invited to breakfast which proffers an amazing array of cheeses, pastries, meets as well as the usual 5-star continental and hot breakfast options.

Maye, Rooms Division Manager, comes to us and tells us that we have been upgraded to the Presidential suite with a Cheshire cat smile. "I was not happy with your accommodation," he happily informs us and happily receives our even happier girlie squeals of delight and elation. At about 10:30, three and a half hours before official check-in time, we are shown to the most indulgent lodgings we could ever imagine. And by lodgings I mean palace. George, our personal valet for our stay, greets us at the door and tells us he is at our beck and call for anything. "Just dial 9." "Does that apply for when we get lost in here as well?" I enquire. "Does this room come with some sort of map or its own GPS satellite?" asks Neeltjie, my photographer. All fair questions. For the next half an hour we wonder around this space. No gym needed – just the distance from the master bedroom to the front door will take care of all your weight watcher needs. The suite comes with a wrap-around balcony and is really quite intoxicating. "I have only ever heard of such places in fairy tales," whispers my friend in awe.

The Presidential Suite is indeed the epitome of leisure for the elite. The expansive 417-square-meter space is a destination unto itself. As the website so verbosely puts it: "The unmatched suite is an embodiment of the finest leisure at the true height of opulence. All rooms will leave you destined for unforgettable memories of an experience of pure leisure."

The décor is understated Zen with marble floors, dark wood furniture juxtaposed with wood panels, mirror ceilings in the hallways (yes hallways, plural) a dining room seating eight, modern art adorning the walls, a study, hand-selected fabrics and furniture not to speak of the massive rooms. There is even a guest toilet.

The suite has great views of the ocean and beautiful indoor/outdoor spaces that flow seamlessly into each other.

The resort has 154 guest rooms and suites, including a penthouse and presidential suite, as well as 18 Fairmont Heritage Place villas, all offering high-speed internet access, spectacular Indian Ocean views, large and luxurious bathtubs, a video on-demand system, with access to hit movies, games and videos, air conditioning, in-room safe, Fairmont bathrobes and slippers, Le Labo Rose 31 luxury bathroom amenities, custom filled mini bars available on request, tea and coffee facilities and hair dryer, iron and ironing board.

Multilingual publications and complimentary newspapers (national or local) are also available on request.

We spend the day exploring the hotel and beautiful grounds, including their famous conference locations.

State-of-the-art conference facilities include two boardrooms, a 240-square-meter ballroom as well as a courtyard and pre-function space. These areas are perfect for accommodating a wide range of corporate and social functions.

We catch a golf cart down to Ayoba near the beach which has a vibrant Mexican atmosphere and food to match.

For dinner we are hosted at the Coral Tree. Renowned for its dinner buffets, the restaurant offers an indulgent experience for the most refined of palates. I have to confess that I don't like buffets at the best of times, but this has to be the best buffet dinner I have ever had in my life. From the amazing waiting staff with their friendly banter and lightning-quick service – our waiter Mervin in particular - to the buffet choices of Italian, South African, Indian and Asian, the experience is outstanding. The wine list is also comprehensive with everything from French Champagne to award-winning South Africa wines on offer.

Starters include sushi and food - including fresh home-made pasta - is made to order at the Asian and Italian stations. The desserts are simply sublime and include baklava, tiramisu, chocolate mud pie and 12 types of ice cream and sorbets.

Attention to guests' desires and likes really sets this place apart - like the gesture of bringing my friend a cheese variety plate as we leave since she had discussed her passion for cheese with Mervin earlier.

I collapse into bed after a full day and fall into a deep sleep to the soothing sounds of the sea.

The next morning after breakfast we meet with the delightful Candice, the Assistant Public Relations Manager of the hotel and she tells us more about this fascinating place. She also reiterates what we have already observed – the nurturing and proper training of staff.

She leaves us at the Willow Stream Spa for a bit of pampering. My massage therapist Zanele does something to me no other therapist has ever managed to do: healing without hurting.

Guests can unwind before or after their treatment on the spa terrace, whose spectacular views of the ocean will calm and soothe you. There is also an outdoor mineral pool, a luxurious steam shower and the option of tranquil couple's lounge or one of their spacious couple's suites.

The treatment menu ensures that your spa visit is truly memorable. The unique bounty of South Africa punctuates their offerings, from an indulgent marula milk bath (featuring the country's celebrated marula fruit) to a stress-relieving intonga stick massage to a hydrating potato, rooibos, aloe and marula mask. They offer many tailored treatments to address your specific health and skin needs, and they also have selected and developed experiences and packages specifically for men, couples and wedding parties. The luxury spa includes nine treatment rooms, as well as steam rooms, separate ladies and gents relaxation lounges and the "Great Room" for after treatment relaxation. The spa offers a full spectrum of health and beauty services all given by trained specialists.

After a divine afternoon nap, we are indulged for dinner at OSA, an Asian Fusion restaurant serving sushi, seafood, curry and prime South African grain-fed cuts.

This fine-dining restaurant is quite an experience. From the minute you step inside you feel like you have transported to a seductive, romantic and understated Bollywood set with low lighting, black, red and glitter décor, candles on the tables and soothing, soft music. Richmond is our waiter and in keeping with the stellar service we have received everywhere, he is, well, stellar…

The cocktail menu is a journey on its own. I have the Célibataire, verbosely and marvelously described on the menu as the following: "If célibataire is French for 'single,' then this sexy cocktail is quite the catch! Asperd joins Cointreau, bourbon and ginger beer – along with a sassy squeeze of fresh grapefruit and lemon – for a cocktail that's worth celebrating."

We are given a taster portion of the butter chicken and lamb Rogan Josh. "Prepared to have you life changed," says one of the other waiters as he sees our plates. But prepared I was not… Neither of us are partial to hot, spicy food, but this was this food had an elegance of flavors, aromas and consistency that was truly life-changing. The melt-in-the-mouth chicken is velvety and the subtle, creamy curry strokes the palate in soft, complex waves. The lamb engages every taste sense and creates new ones. A bit much, I know, but it really was like that!

Dessert leaves me equally in awe – a trio of crème Brule consisting of Chai, cinnamon and rose water. Delirious stuff…

The restaurant manager Ashley has us in stitches with his sense of humor and his wonderful stories taking us long into the night.

We take our leave the next morning after breakfast just as the sun bursts from the horizon for the first clear, hot day in weeks. Just our luck.

Fairmont Zimbali will leave you with a lifetime of beautiful memories – of the food, the setting, the laid-back luxury but most of all, the people.

Step down into the tropical pool area

Quiet beach walks

Far from the maddening crowd

Getting there:

There are currently no direct flights from China to South Africa but carriers like Cathay Pacific and Emirates offer almost daily one-stop flights to Johannesburg. From there you can rent a car or take one of the local low-cost airlines to Durban for a quick 45-minute flight.

Contact:

http://www.fairmont.com/zimbali-resort/